Friday 22 July 2016

Thermostats and Your Safety - Dryer Maintenance

Have you ever thought about how exactly hot your dryer gets? Thermostats and thermal fuses are put in dryers for your safety and if you don't need to maintain them, you could be putting yourself, your house, and your family vulnerable.

Your drier uses of any blend of heat and airflow to dry your clothes. Typically the heat generated in your dryer is produced by a heating factor manipulated by a series of thermostats. If any of your dryer's thermostats are defective, the results can be disastrous.

Safety Alert: Before performing any assessments or repairs on your dryer disconnect the power source to eliminate the risk of electric shock. You can do this by unplugging the drier, eliminating the related fuse from the fuse box, or flipping the appropriate switch on the breaker panel.

The dryer thermostat is usually oval shaped and about an inch and a half in length. The particular thermostat contains a bimetal that opens and shuts a pair of contacts depending on the temp inside the dryer.

Typically the bimetal inside the temperature control system is designed to fold at specific temperatures. When the bimetal bends, it shoves an actuator. The actuator then pushes on a contact, opening the power circuit and breaking the electrical link with the related component. When the thermostat cools, the bimetal returns to its original condition and the contacts close, allowing the current to movement through the circuit.

Here is how it works: The dryer is started up and heat commences to expand from the heating element into the dryer's drum. The air in the drum passes by a thermostat. Since the thermostat gets to its maximum temperature, the bimetal bends, cutting the power to the heating system element. The circuit stays open until the bimetal cools. Because the heating system factor isn't providing additional heat, the dryer's temp steadily falls. The bimetal returns to its original condition and the electric current flows to start out the heating factor again. This method happens many times all through your dryer's cycle.

Presently there are at least two thermostats in your dryer: cycling (operating) thermostat and hi-limit safety)thermostat. The between these two thermostats is their opening and shutting temperatures.

The cycling thermostat is typically present in the path of the air leaving the drum. A cycling thermostat is usually located on the fan housing or maybe under the lint filter area, on the blower wheel housing or inside the venting/exhaust system.

Several dryers might have as many as five thermostats - one for every single of the various heat cycles. The heat setting or cycle picked determines which thermostat can be used to control the temperature. If the dryer is not working on the low heat setting, the thermostat for that particular setting is probably defective.

The thermostats for the high and medium temperature selections are not the problem. However, if the dryer isn't working properly for the majority of the heat settings, it's probably a problem with your vent rather than the thermostats.

The hi-limit thermal protects your dryer from overheating. This thermostat is usually found on the heating element, housing, or cage assembly. If the airflow in the clothes dryer becomes obstructed by way of a blocked or improperly installed vent, bad drum seals, or a defective blower, the high-limit thermostat cuts power to the heating aspect. This means there are other problems with your dryer.

In conjunction with thermostats, dryers use heat fuses as a protection device. Some dryer models could have two thermal combines to identify extreme warmth. If the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut energy to the heating element and the factor gets too hot, the heat fuse blows and slashes all power to the dryer. This could mean that a thermostat is faulty or something is incorrect with your venting duct, filters, seals, or blower. You cannot reset energy fuses so once they blow they need to be replaced. Get the proper replacement fuse for your model and replace the hi-limit thermostat as well. In no way bypass a thermal blend.To become more data click here TERMOREGOLATORI.

Check out your dryer's manual for the locations of its thermostats. It's unconventional for a dryer's thermostat to continue operating at a different temperature than actually intended and the only method to test for this would be by looking at the temperature of the exhaust. You can do this by positioning a pocket thermometer inside the exhaust vent. This test is done with the dryer running, so be extremely careful.

Checking continuity is another way to test your thermostat. There's a wire leading to each of the thermostat's terminals. Typically the wires are attached by metal slip-on connectors. Label the wires before you take them off so that you're able to properly reconnect them later. To get rid of the wires use needle nose pliers to pull on the connectors - may pull on the wire connections themselves.

Set your multimeter to the RX1 environment. With the thermostat at room temperature, touch one meter probe to one terminal and touch the other meter probe to the other terminal. You should obtain a reading of zero. If the thermostat is tested if it's heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. You need to replace your thermostat if it fails either of these tests.

Typically the thermostat is mounted on the dryer with two anchoring screws. Remove both screws and discard the faulty thermostat. Install a new thermal, securing it in place with two screws. Reconnect the two wires, put your dryer back again, and restore power to the dryer. Run your dryer via a cycle to make certain it's working properly.To get additional facts click the link TERMOSTATI.

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